Men’s Fashion : (

What has happened to men’s fashion? In the 1930's men dressed well. Literally the average man wore a suit for most occasions. Even in the great depression men looked good. Now it is hard to find a man who dresses well. I blame the clothing manufacturers. I think they have a vested interest in making men buy sub standard clothing. Most are designed to fall apart. The style are low style. Indefinable. Designed to be brought, but quickly disposed of. It is time to change. It is time to go back to a better time. It is time to dress like they did in the 1930's.

Shrink to fit jeans

So why buy shrink to fit jeans? The best reason is because they offer a tailored look, for a lot less money than tailoring. No trousers will fit as well as a pair of shrink to fit jeans. They will literally mold to fit whatever body type you have. They will also fade more naturally to the way you move. Then there is the fact that they will last a lot longer. Especially if you go the full hog, and do what the manufacturers recommend, which is not washing them for up to 6 months after the initial sizing wash. Sounds disgusting, but if you rotate them with other trousers, and and air them in-between, they are fine. I recommend the classic raw indigo 501.

Cricket Jumper

Every gentleman needs a big warm jumper for winter. The English have fine tuned their designs - having an abundance of drafty houses. One of my favorites is the white v-neck cricket sweater. They have a wonderful cable Knit pattern. You can get them in wool or cotton, but wool is the warmest.

Chino shirt

Being made from thick cotton, they are a great shirt for going out at night, or using in the winter under a jumper. Originally for soldiers, they have a old fashioned classic look. Like a Brooks Brothers button down, they actually look better after they get worn in. They look best with a straight-point-collar, which is what the army traditionally use.

Fit Fit Fit

The most important thing in regards to dressing well, is making sure that the clothes you buy fit correctly. If an item fits correctly it looks tailored. It is simple to do minor alterations, but big alterations tend to ruin the look of clothing. It is better to be dressed in jeans and T-shirt than fit well, than a thousand dollar designer suit that doesn’t.

Button Down Shirts

Button down shirts are the casual shirt that works with or without a jacket. Or with or without a tie. A truly versatile classic. Worn in business and in leisure. Even the Italian like them. If you are brave you could copy, Gianni Agnelli, and wear them unbutton. A Brooks Brothers invention, they still make the best. Probably half my shirts (and I have quite a few) are Brooks Brothers Oxford Button Downs.

Gucci Loafers

One of the more expensive shoes you can buy, but well worth the money. This has to be the most versatile shoe around. In black they look as good with a pair of jeans as they do with a tux. Gucci play around with the design, so chose a model that is as old school as possible.

Collar Bar

I really like the look of a collar bar. It makes you tie come forward, which makes it look far better, and it adds that little extra detail. In a world where, more often than not, the average person sees a suit as something worn for job interviews; the collar bar makes it something, definitely not, for an interview. It works best on a straight-point-collar - just because it has to reach from one collar to the other. As the collar bar pushes your collar down, don't use collar stays.

Blucher shoe

Named after the 18th century Prussian general Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher, who first commissioned it for his troops. The Blucher charm is it is a no nonsense shoe. It differs from the Derby, as its vamp is made with one single piece of leather. With less seams, it is more waterproof and less likely to break. This is why after its invention it soon became the shoe worn by the armies of Europe. The Blucher is a lot less dressy than an Oxford. As such it goes well with jeans and other casual trousers. I would only recommend it in brown, as it is just a casual shoe. But a good one nevertheless.

Vintage Watches

If you can't afford a Rolex, or Patek Philippe, maybe a vintage watch would work for you? You want a real mechanical movement. The better watches tend to be automatic watches, where the mainspring is wound automatically as a result of natural motion of the wearer's arm. I would aim for a Swiss movement, but there are a few good vintage Japanese and American watches out there (do your research). You can pick up vintage watches on ebay, in markets, and charity (thrift) stores. For around $50 to $200, you can find some really interesting models. Being vintage they are often smaller than the current trend for huge mens watches. I personally prefer smaller watches, and do wonder if the, big watch thing, will go by the wayside in time. Vintage watches also have that, it could have been my grandfathers, thing going. I like military style watches, with the black faces. I would advise getting your watch serviced - though that would still be the case with a Rolex (and a lot more expensive to service).

Distressed Oxfords

I really liking the look of distressed leather shoes, especially in a nice pair of brown oxfords. Like an old piece of antique furniture the scratches and blemishes holds the history of the shoes. I still look after my battle worn oxfords. I care for them by using shoe trees, and shoe cream if needed. A darker polish or shoe cream helps to bring out the scratches and blemishes. I would shy away from wearing them with a suit, but they look good with an odd jacket and jeans. They are particularly good with tweed, as they give you that - just got back from the family estate look. Some people will buy a pair of new shoes and distress them on purpose, this seems a little strange to me. It has to be cheaper to resole an old pair, than destroy a new pair. So dont throw out your old oxfords, just wear them in more. A good game of soccer in the mud will work wonders on them. When you can pass them off as something you have had for half your life, they are done to perfection. Though it even better, if you can keep them going for half your life.

Panama Hat

Panama hats are literally the best summer hat you can own. They are lightweight, waterproof, and with some of the better ones they roll up - Lock & Co make one that does. Contrary to their name, they come from Ecuador. Woven from the Panama palm, they allow your head to be shielded from the sun but also able to breath. There are two basic designs, the standard, or the design with the optimo crown - a crest running along the middle. A good one costs a fair bit but will last for years.

Signet Rings

The word signet comes from the latin "signum" meaning literally to sign. In the US signet rings are generally classed as pinkie rings - as that is the finger they are most usually worn on. Most signet rings are still made in reverse, so you can use them with wax. Signet rings have been around since Egyptian times, and a rare bit of acceptable male jewelry. If you are not from one of Europes old aristocratic families that has a crest, your initials in italic still looks great. I would match the colour of your signet ring to the metal of your wedding ring.

Odd Jackets

So what is an odd jacket - when not a blogger? At the beginning of the 20th century, men wore suits for doing pretty much everything. People quickly realised that it was hard playing sports in a full suit. The main problem was that the trousers quickly wore out, leaving the owner with just a jacket - an odd jacket - with no matching trousers. People started to pair their odd jackets with trousers made of hardier fabrics. It didn’t take long for people to start producing specific jackets for sports, which were then called sports jacket. So back to the question of what an odd jacket is - it is a jacket that hasn’t got matching trousers. Blazers having evolved a different rout are not classed as odd jackets.

Flat Cap

A hundred years ago the average man wore a flat cap, now it generally a baseball cap. Why? A flat cap keeps the sun out of your eyes - like a baseball cap - and a lot more. There is a reason this type of hat has survived since the 14th century. If made of wool - which most good ones are - a flat cap will keep your head warm on a cold day. Get one a little large, and it will slip over the top of your ears to keep them warm as well. Also wool is great at keeping you dry in the rain. Add to this, it actually looks good, what good reason have you not to wear one?

Wool Socks

I love wool socks. I am not alone. Fred Astaire would only wear wool socks. I am not talking about the clunky types you get for hiking. The ones I use are as detailed as cotton, but are far nicer on the feet. Wool socks are better with moisture, warmth, and in my opinion a lot more comfortable. I would still wear silk for some suits - like a tux - but apart form that I recommend wool all the way.

Stockpiling Walking Sticks

I am currently fighting fit and in my early 40’s. That said, I am stockpiling walking stick. The way I see it, it never hurts to be prepared. At least then, when I need one, I don't have to hobble along with one of those horrible hospital issued numbers.

Pocket square?

A lot is said about, not, wearing pocket squares. Mostly that are that they are pretentious. Traders and bankers have ditched them in recent years, supposedly so they could look less decedent. So should you wear pocket squares with your day-to-day odd jackets, blazers and suits? My answer is an unequivocal yes. Hell why not? They can add color and class if done right. The breast pocket was made for a pocket square. When I see a breast pocket without one, the jacket looks incomplete. The people who say their time has come and gone are incorrect. A pocket square has never been for average man, more the flag of the well dressed man.

Tie Widths

What width tie to wear? Let your suits and jackets decide. The rule is a tie, at its widest point, should equal the widest part of your jacket lapel - give or take. I should add that ties that are 3” to 3.5" in width, at their widest point, tend to work best for most builds of men. Anything too thin or think will date quickly.

Tielocken Coat

Burberry developed the Tielocken coat, a predecessor of the trench coat, in 1895. The Tielocken was originally adopted by British officers during the Boer War. In the First World War the Tielocken was again popular with officers, and the new trench coat by regular soldiers. In the post war period the trench coat became the more popular, and the Tielocken slowly faded into obscurity. In the 1980's Burberry briefly reissued it.

In my opinion the Tielocken is a simpler and more aesthetically good looking mac. It is a wonder why no company has reissued it?

Short Trousers

Are short trousers acceptable? I am not talking about a short break, where the trousers only just touch the shoes, but when the trousers stopping and inch or so higher. In my opinion yes. When wearing boots like a chukka or Tricker ankle boots, you want your trousers to be short enough to allow people to see that you actually have boots on. No sock or legs showing please. I like the Thom Browne look of overly short trousers, but just on Thom Browne, not much on anyone else.

Collar Stays

Collar stays, also called collar stiffeners, are used to keep shirt collar points straight and sharp by stopping them bending.

They slip in on the underside of the collar closest to the tie. Most shirts come with plastic ones - apart from pinned or button down shirts which do not need them. I recommend investing in some metal ones as they are less likely to bend, and the weight holds down the shirt better. If you are feeling flush, you can even get silver or gold collar stays. Some people use horn, baleen, mother of pearl, but these are too light and prone to breaking. Just remember to take them out before washing.

Patch Pockets

Patch pockets are pockets sewn onto the outside of a garment. They are historically the oldest design of pocket. Somehow patch pockets manage to be both extremely traditional, but also slightly excentric. The more common jetted or flapped pockets may make a jacket look dressier and more refined, but a patch pockets scream individually. They work on nearly every type of jacket, apart from dinner jackets, which work best with jetted pockets. The only minor issue with patch pockets is the occasional thing falling out - so don't do too much jumping or somersaulting. Some of my favorite jackets have patch pockets. They work particularly well with odd jackets. Traditionally they tend to feature mostly on summer jackets, but I prefer them on thicker winter jackets.

The Importance of Good Shoes

As a man I am a little embarrassed to say I love shoes. My wife thinks I have a shoe problem - too many. I think maybe my problem is I have too few. In my opinion no other item of fashion is as important as what you have on your feet. A man is not well dressed or stylish if they are not wearing a decent pair of shoes.

One of my favorite quotes is by Bernhard Roetzel who said “It would be better to go through life barefoot or wearing just socks ... than to lose face by wearing cheap shoes.” It is an involuntary response to check someone's footwear - so a lot of thought should go into the choice. It always surprises me how much people spend on status items like cars and watches, which are hardly seen, and so little on their shoes which are. The shoes are not only an aid in transport, they are physically there with you when you interact with people (unless in bed or swimming) . I was recently skimming through one of my wifes magazines, and I thought a quote by Nina Garcia, the fashion journalist, summed it up well - "A great pair of shoes can make a $20 outfit look like couture, and a poorly constructed pair of shoes can make couture look like a cheap knockoff." Okay, she was talking about women shoes, but it still hold true for men. Oxford shoe "Bal-type" is the most classic of all mens shoes, and should form the backbone of any mans shoe collection. If you want some ornamentation you can have full or part brogues (wingtip, half or quarter). I recommend a well made English shoe manufacturer (preferably made in Northamptonshire). An English made oxford will arguably only start to look good after some wear. France, Italy and the US have some other decent manufacturers. The shoes I am talking about buying are not cheap ($200 upwards), but if well maintained they will last a lifetime. All my best shoes have leather soles, but it pays to have some with rubber for when it gets icy or just too god damn wet. Once you have your oxfords, you can start experimenting with other types of shoes. I recommend at least one classic suede, a monkstraps, and gucci loafers if you are feeling flush. After that you are on your own. Just make sure that it isn’t a fad shoe, but a classic, at least then you then will know it won't go out of style.